13 Tech Devices Or Accessories That Are Actually Worth Buying Used

People don't just buy consumer electronics brand-new because they want them in the best condition. New products have warranties and customer support if something's not right, and credit card chargebacks and class action lawsuits can get you some measure of you financial justice if those don't work. In comparison, buying used feels like the Wild West, especially with delicate electronics that can be broken in ways that aren't visible at a glance. Some pieces of PC tech you should never buy used, and there are endless stories of people getting shafted in the online platforms where you might buy them (looking at you, Facebook Marketplace). But if you know the ins and outs of buying used electronics, some used tech products are well worth the risk.

Buying secondhand saves you money, sure, but the savings really add up when it comes to things like used PC parts for your next build. Some used items suffer no disadvantage compared to new ones other than cosmetic wear, and others have internal components you can replace yourself for a few dollars and elbow grease. Here are 13 that, in my opinion, are worth grabbing for that sweet preowned discount.

I've owned and used a lot of Windows PCs, and something consistent among them is their eventual, permanent slowdown. Windows PCs simply don't age well. Installing a beginner-friendly Linux distro is about the only thing that can breathe new life into them. That's not the case with MacBooks. Although hard data is hard to come by, a great deal of anecdotal evidence suggests that these laptops often refuse to die long after Apple has stopped supporting them. The many replies to this Reddit thread asking how old Redditors' MacBooks are proves my point. One user says their 2016 model got them through "university, 3 years of work, and now currently [their] first year of masters degree." Another mentions still using their 1998 PowerBook G3, albeit just for retro gaming. 

This doesn't mean you shouldn't exercise caution. Check that all the hardware and software is working as you would with any device, and temper your expectations; there are still things you should know before buying a Mac. If you're interested in the latest macOS Sequoia features, then make sure the version you're buying supports the operating system. If not, you may be able to use OpenCore Legacy Patcher to get it running. Consider buying directly from Apple's Certified Refurbished program; these devices are like-new, tested, and include a one year limited warranty and the possibility to buy AppleCare.

Don't get me wrong, Android has some great devices. The Google Pixel 9 Pro continues to be the "smartest" smartphone on the market, and Samsung's Galaxy Ultra flagships are a solid cornerstone shoring up the Samsung ecosystem against Apple's. However, the iPhone has consistently remained a highly sought-after used option, retaining a high price compared to its Android alternatives. Its popularity on the secondhand market bears that out. And with parts pairing practically a thing of the past, replacing the battery is no longer as much of a headache.

Apple has a in-depth guide on how to test a used iPhone before buying. Assuming it's up to spec, you can buy it with peace of mind. iOS has long-term support for older devices, so if you buy a phone made in the past 5-7 years, it may still get updates; the 2018 iPhone Xr supports 2024's iOS 18, to give an example. Like most smartphone manufacturers, new iPhones offer only incremental improvements over previous generations. I owned the iPhone 13 up until very recently, and I can say with confidence it would be a rock-solid used device.

When building a gaming PC, the GPU tends to be the tentpole, the most expensive component any gamer buys. But a decent gaming monitor is another one of those costs that can sneak up on you, and it's one you don't wanna go too cheap on lest it fail to appreciate your GPU's full power. Buying a used gaming monitor gets you more expensive features — higher resolution, higher frame rate, HDR — for a much more reasonable price. Tests have demonstrated that LCD monitors can run for years, even 24/7, and still look wonderful. All that's left, then, is to test it; play some content on it to check for dead pixels or visual defects, and you should be good to go.

That said, the story changes when it comes to OLED monitors. OLED panels have one achilles heel: burn-in. Static elements like your Windows taskbar can leave a permanent shadowy mark on the screen. This is becoming less common as the technology improves (especially with tech like tandem OLED) and it will depend on how heavy your usage is. But I don't recommend it simply because you have no idea how heavily the previous owner used it. For all you know, the burn-in might only manifest after you buy it because the seller ran it ragged.

Mechanical keyboards are all the rage right now among computer nerds. In them, each key has its own switch and produces a satisfying, tactile click that many argue makes typing and playing games more satisfying. Having tried the mechanical keyboards of friends, I can't deny the appeal, but I can deny the price. The viral LeoBog Hi75 keyboard that we tested costs almost $100, for example — more reason to buy used, when a decent Logitech keyboard might run you a quarter as much.

Buying used is worth it, though, because of mechanical keyboard durability. Membrane keyboards (the one you're likely using on your computer) might get 10 million key presses — mechanical ones can get up to 100 million. Plus, changing the switches and keys is easy and cheap, in the event one of them breaks. The popularity of mechanical keyboards leads to (in my observation) a lot of impulse buys, and therefore plenty of people selling their purchases when they regret them later on. Add on the fact that there's fierce competition in the mechanical keyboard space (tons of manufacturers make them), and you've got a recipe for great prices.

GPUs are a bit like smartphones. Manufacturers aggressively sell their latest models despite older ones still being able to manage the latest games. An NVidia GTX 1080 from 2016 can still play 2024's demanding "Silent Hill 2" remake. Case in point, you can comfortably buy yesteryear's GPU and not need to upgrade your PC for years. Buying new GPUs is already further soured by scalpers, who buy up all the stock and then resell it for extortionate prices. Long story short, just buy yourself something used.

If you're worried about the impact on performance and longevity, don't. Even GPUs that have been running 24/7 to mine cryptocurrency perform great. Instead, buy a GPU with seller protections and return policies. If it's a lone sell, ask for video proof of the card running a demanding title, like "Cyberpunk 2077." Check to make sure all its pins are in place and that its fans still work. One of the huge benefits of buying used is you can still get a top of the line card that will compete with recent releases; the RTX 4090, for example, ranks directly behind the new RTX 5090.

I own the Steam Deck OLED, and I personally think it's the best way to play PC games. Nothing scratches that nostalgic itch of the GameBoy days like a handheld, and this handheld runs modern AAA games. The Steam Deck is affordable, too. The entry-level model 256GB LCD model costs a modest $399.00, less than a mid-range GPU. Better yet, Steam Decks are excellent used devices, primarily because everything that may need to be replaced at some point can be replaced.

The LCD screen (as we've discussed) likely will last a long time, but it can be swapped out without much hassle if it gets cracked. Virtually none of the device's most wear-prone components require professional repair. It took me only about 20 minutes to replace the thumb sticks with Hall Effect sensor sticks, and even less to upgrade the SSD drive with a higher-capacity one.

The battery — the part you most likely need to change on a used unit — is also user-removable, although iFixit says the process takes 2-4 hours and is "difficult." And if your used Deck looks a bit too used, accessories to trick your Steam Deck out for traveling can make it look brand new. The degree of user replaceability that the Steam Deck offers means you might even be able to get a broken unit for a deep discount and fix it.

The best Bluetooth headphones always get overtaken by next year's version with better ANC and longer battery life. However, in the realm of wired headphones (and speakers), an audiophile-grade pair can last you your entire life. Cables get frayed, and ear pads get cracked, sure, but those things can be replaced. The speaker drivers themselves can easily last years or decades, provided they're not neglected. In the interest of full disclosure, I say all this based on my personal experience across dozens of pairs of headphones and speakers, as well as anecdotes from other enthusiasts.

In fact, some argue that headphones and speakers sound better with time. They call this "burn in," the process of playing new speakers or headphones for a certain amount of hours to "break them in." There's no hard evidence proving burn-in makes a meaningful impact, but it is at least a comfort that listening gear, like a fine wine, gets more desirable with age.

To be clear, I'm not talking about a cheap $10 no-name pair of earbuds, but rather, the audiophile-grade stuff — which doesn't necessarily mean expensive. The Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro (a sound engineer's favorite, retailing for $169.99 brand-new) has been hanging off the side of my desk for the past seven years and hasn't needed any of its parts replaced. I'd be shocked if it didn't last another seven, and then seven more.

DSLR cameras don't get quite as long in the tooth as headphones and speakers, but they do have a surprising amount of longevity. It depends on who you ask, but some experts say DSLRs get up to 10 years of use. You may only want to buy them used, too, since a decent DSLR can easily cost thousands of dollars. Unless you need one for a job as a professional photographer, save yourself the money and get photos that will likely be almost as good as those from a newer model.

There are a few things to consider when buying used in the camera market. One, the older they are, the more likely they are to have a less-common storage medium, like CompactFlash instead of SD. Two, be wary of the shutter count. DSLRs can only last for a few hundred thousand shutter actuations. The closer they get to that number, the sooner they're likely to fail. Some cameras can also accumulate dust on their sensors. As with any used item, test it thoroughly before handing over your money. Here are some of the best DSLR cameras to buy used.

Of all the recommendations here, this is where I get my most anecdotal. The VR market right now is not encouraging. VR headsets are expensive. Even the "budget-priced" Meta Quest 3S costs $300, a lot of money for what is supposed to be a peripheral for an even more expensive gaming PC. With declining VR headset sales, fewer games are being made for VR, creating a cruel feedback loop of decline. I don't recommend buying a brand-new VR headset if you're curious and don't have much experience with one; get it used and lessen the financial blow if you find out later it's not for you.

This is where the really anecdotal part comes in: a lot of people (myself included) enjoyed the gimmick of VR for all of a week before it wore off, leading them to sell their VR headsets once they start collecting dust. I've personally seen a flood of used VR headsets for sale on online marketplaces from disillusioned owners. There, they gather even more dust. The buyers, frustrated with getting no bites, drop the price. This all means that you, a person looking for a VR headset, can likely swoop in and grab one for a steal that would make Mark Zuckerberg feel sick.

Speaking of niche markets where you can lose a lot of money before realizing the hobby's not for you, let's talk 3D printers. There are plenty of affordable 3D printers for small projects, but anyone who wants to make the bigger, more complicated stuff is going to have to buy a much larger printer. Larger almost always means more expensive. Same with VR, a lot of people buy 3D printers, use them for a week, and then forget about them — trust me, it's a dime a dozen situation. Buying used lets you break into the space without gut-checking your wallet.

One reason 3D printers are great to buy used is because, like the Steam Deck, they're very fixable. Most major, critical components can be swapped out. Ironically, you can even print parts for your 3D printer with your 3D printer. Most of the issues with buying a 3D printer have more to do with the people selling it to you and the condition of the product, rather than buying a 3D printer in general. If you can see it in action before laying down the cash (with a video, for example), all the better.

Anyone who has used a graphing calculator in school knows they're tough enough to be thrown in a backpack, dropped, and perhaps even used as a self-defense weapon — all great qualities for used products. They run on disposable batteries, meaning they'll practically last forever (provided their metal components don't rust). The calculators also haven't exactly improved in leaps and bounds over the years, so if your professor doesn't have a specific requirement for them, you can always grab whatever used edition is most affordable and convenient. Best of all, graphing calculators rarely stay in a person's possession for long; most people use them for their high school and college math classes before handing them down or selling them off. Graduated college students desperate for cash will take whatever they can sell an old calculator for.

Once more, your main concern should be with confirming the calculator is in working condition. Get return guarantees from third parties, or videos from lone sellers to make sure it turns on. Meet up if you can and check the display for issues, and whether the expandable ports work. The classic Texas Instruments TI-83 Plus can run you $78.88 on Amazon, but that same model used might only cost you $20 on eBay. If ever there were a product that's rarely worth buying new, this is it.

I've built a lot of PCs over the years, and one area where I feel people waste money is on the case. Unless your new PC needs USB 3.1 ports on the front, why spend several hundred dollars for something you can nab for under 50 dollars? This Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L Micro-ATX Tower will set you back all of $39.99. That said, it's understandable that someone would want to dress up a PC they just spent several thousand dollars on. So I recommend buying used to get those more expensive cases for cheaper. After all, the last thing people usually budget for with an expensive gaming PC build is, well, the case.

The only real issue is, you guessed it, making sure your product is in full working order. Computer cases can be a bit tricky in this regard since they come bundled with all the little connector wires that go from your motherboard to your power button, USB plug-ins, and audio inputs/outputs. If there's an issue with one of these wires, basic functions of your PC (like plugging in a pair of headphones) won't work. There's always the chance that the previous owner was yanking wires instead of unplugging them gently. So, caveat emptor, as always.

Like mechanical keyboards, docking hubs are another thing in the PC world that are all the rage. They're the little boxes with USB, HDMI, audio, and other ports that sit on you desk within easy reach. They either expand a laptop's limited connection options, or keep you from crawling behind your desk to access a desktop PC's I/O. Mighty handy if you need one, but also quite expensive if you want support for all the latest DisplayPort, USB-C, and PD standards. As a person who owns a used USB docking station, I can say there's no reason not to save money and buy used, unless it's broken. Ultimately, it's just a box with some connectors, no moving parts or batteries. If it all works, then it's full steam ahead.

My recommendation is to try and meet up with the buyer if possible and bring your laptop. Plug into the connectors with whatever USB or audio you have to make sure it's all functional. If your computer recognizes that a USB drive has been plugged in and you can read the files, then you're probably good to go. Ideally, buy it from a third-party seller that has some sort of warranty or return guarantee for defective products.